“Heroin chic” returns: the dark side of Y2K fashion’s revival
“Heroin chic” returns
As Y2K fashion makes a comeback, the troubling return of the “heroin chic” aesthetic highlights ongoing concerns about body image and inclusivity in the fashion world.

Low-rise jeans, baby tees, and slip dresses — the 90s are officially back. As Y2K fashion resurges in popular culture, a darker trend seems to have returned alongside it: the “heroin chic” aesthetic. Characterized by gaunt figures, pale skin, and hollowed eyes, this ultra-thin look ruled fashion in the late 90s, glorifying unhealthy body standards. Though the fashion industry has worked to elevate inclusivity and body positivity in recent years, heroin chic’s unsettling reappearance raises questions about whether these changes have been genuine or merely another passing trend.
The Cultural Shift: Y2K Fashion’s Revival of “Heroin Chic”
Y2K fashion, with its nostalgic nods to low-rise jeans and midriff-baring tops, has taken over social media, reigniting our interest in trends from the late 90s and early 2000s. For some students, this return to Y2K fashion brings with it the same pressure to be as thin as the models who dominated that era.
“I love the Y2K aesthetic,” says Julia Zettergren, a Syracuse University senior studying human development and family science. “It’s fun, colorful, and I love how it’s casual but bold. But there’s no denying the fact that the body type associated with it is skinny — like, really skinny. I don’t think anyone would feel comfortable in these styles unless they had that body.”
The ultra-thin body standard, particularly tied to Y2K fashion, isn’t just about clothing — it’s about an entire cultural framework that normalizes a dangerously thin physique. Though mainstream fashion has incorporated more diverse body types in recent years, the return of heroin chic hints that the allure of extreme thinness hasn’t disappeared.
“I’m not really surprised by the resurgence of heroin chic,” says Taylor Feiden, a senior majoring in accounting and supply chain. “It’s like fashion is obsessed with extremes. We went from celebrating curvy figures, thanks to the Kardashians, to now being back to glorifying thinness. It just shows how fickle these beauty standards are.”
The Role of Ozempic: A Glamorous Weight-Loss Drug?
A major player in this aesthetic shift is the rise of drugs like Ozempic. Originally developed to treat type 2 diabetes, Ozempic and similar medications have garnered attention for their off-label use as weight-loss aids. Celebrities and influencers have glamorized these drugs as a quick fix for shedding pounds, making it easier to achieve that slim, Y2K-inspired body type.
“Everyone is talking about Ozempic,” says Ashley Romero, an SU junior studying public relations. “I see it on TikTok all the time — people posting about their weight-loss journeys, and it’s kind of unsettling. It makes it seem like being skinny is as easy as taking a shot. It’s almost like the heroin chic look of the 90s but now with pharmaceuticals instead of actual drugs.”
Echoing the bold drug usage of earlier years, Ozempic is emerging as a powerful influence in the fashion industry today. At Berlin Fashion Week, a controversial “I Love Ozempic” shirt made headlines, sparking debates about whether the industry is normalizing the use of weight-loss drugs. The rise of Ozempic is directly tied to the re-emergence of heroin chic, reinforcing the idea that thinness is the ultimate goal, even if it comes at the expense of health.
“I think Ozempic is dangerous,” adds Romero. “It’s being marketed as something glamorous, but at the end of the day, it’s a medication meant for people with serious health conditions. The fact that people are using it for cosmetic reasons shows how distorted our views on body image are.”
The Influence of Public Figures: From The Kardashians to TikTok Creators
Social media influencers and celebrities have long held sway over beauty trends, and the return of heroin chic is no different. From TikTok creators like Liv Schmidt, known for her ultra-thin, minimalistic Y2K-inspired look, to the Kardashian family, who have recently sparked speculation about their sudden weight loss, these public figures are shaping the aesthetic in real-time.
“I think a lot of us get caught up in what influencers are wearing and how they look,” says first-year student Jenn Lewis, majoring in psychology. “TikTok makes it so easy to compare yourself to these girls who have perfect, thin bodies. Liv Schmidt is always trending, and while I like her style, it makes me feel like I need to look like her to wear those clothes.”
On the other hand, some students recognize the power these figures hold in reinforcing harmful standards.
“The Kardashians have always influenced body image,” says Feiden. “They popularized the curvy body, but now that they’re losing weight and going for this more streamlined look, it’s like the whole world has to follow suit. It’s dangerous because their influence is so massive.”
The Kardashian family, who once celebrated curvier, fuller figures, have recently undergone noticeable transformations, prompting discussions about whether they’ve turned to weight-loss drugs like Ozempic. Their massive platforms and casual athleisure aesthetic — featuring skin-tight silhouettes — have significantly influenced perceptions of beauty and body standards.
Industry Trends: The Decline of Plus-Size Models
The fashion industry has made efforts toward inclusivity, but those strides seem to be retracting. Plus-size models, once a growing presence on runways and in campaigns, have seen a noticeable decline in visibility over the past 18 months. For some students, this is evidence that the fashion world is still grappling with promoting diverse body types.
“I’ve noticed fewer plus-size models lately,” says Zettergren. “I used to feel hopeful seeing brands like Savage X Fenty putting all body types on display. But now, it feels like we’re going back to celebrating thinness, and that’s really disappointing.”
Recent data supports this concern. A report from the Fashion Spot found that the representation of plus-size models at major fashion weeks has steadily declined since its peak in 2020. This decrease coincides with the reemergence of thinner, heroin chic-like bodies on runways, signaling that the push for body inclusivity is faltering.
“It’s discouraging,” says Lewis. “We were making so much progress with body diversity, and now it’s like we’re being told that skinny is the only option again. It sends a harmful message to everyone who doesn’t fit that mold.”
A Step Backward
While some brands and designers continue to push for inclusivity, the return of heroin chic raises questions about whether the fashion industry is doing enough to combat harmful body standards.
Until there’s a widespread shift in how the industry approaches body diversity, heroin chic’s resurgence will continue to cast a shadow over fashion’s progress. Consumers, especially young people, are left navigating a landscape where thinness is once again being championed while more inclusive beauty ideals struggle to maintain their foothold.
“The fashion world has a responsibility to challenge these harmful trends,” says Feiden. “I think some designers are trying, but the fact that heroin chic is making a comeback shows that the industry still has a long way to go. It’s not enough to put a few plus-size models on the runway—there needs to be a real commitment to promoting healthy body standards.”
The return of heroin chic signals a disturbing step backward in the fight for body inclusivity. The resurgence of Y2K fashion, coupled with the glamorization of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic and the decreasing representation of plus-size models, shows how fashion and society continue to prize thinness at any cost.
“It’s frustrating to see how quickly fashion can revert to old, harmful standards,” says Romero. “I hope this is a wake-up call for the industry to do better.”